York Gas Furnace: TM9T
Re: Flashing Code 3
Code 3 = The normally open (1LP or 3LP) pressure switch contact did not close after the inducer was energized.
► This is a "Soft Lockout" which will automatically reset after 1 hour.
► There are 3 pressure switches on this furnace. 1LP (1st Stage Switch) and 3LP (Condensate Switch) are wired in series to the pressure switch input. 
► The 2LP (2nd Stage Switch) wires in separately and will cause a Code 13.
	
		
			| Qty | Possible Causes: | 
		
			| 1 | Bad Inducer Motor or Capacitor | 
		
			|  | Water in Vent | 
		
			| 5 | Water in Inducer/Clogged Drain | 
		
			| 1 | Improper Condensate Drainage | 
		
			|  | Bad Pressure Switch | 
		
			|  | Water in Pressure Switch / Tubing | 
	
CHECKOUT:
1. Check Inducer Motor Operation
	- Start the furnace with a call for heat from the thermostat.
- Observe and listen to the inducer motor operation.
	
		- Inducer Motor Starts and Runs Normally → Step 2. Check Pressure Switch
- Inducer motor hums but does not start normally:
		
			- Bad Inducer Motor or Capacitor
- Item in Inducer or Melted Blower Wheel ⇒ Remove inducer & check
 
- Sound of water "slurshing" = Water in Inducer ⇒ Remove the Inducer, pour out water, re-install inducer → Step 3. Check Condensate Drainage
 
- Listen for sounds of water in vent piping.
	
		- If water is gurgling in vent, look for low spots that will hold water.
		
			- Pipe must have constant slope back toward furnace.
 
 
2. Check Pressure Switches
	- 1LP (1st Stage Switch)
- Check for 24VAC between "C" on the terminal block and the Blk/Org wire on 1LP.
- Check for 24VAC between "C" on the terminal block and the Wht wire on 1LP.
	
		- Power On Both Sides = Switch Closed ⇒ Check 3LP Switch
- Power on One Side Only = Switch Open ⇒ Check 1LP Pressure (below)
 
- 3LP (Condensate Switch)
- Check for 24VAC between "C" on the terminal block and the Wht wire on 3LP.
- Check for 24VAC between "C" on the terminal block and the Red/Grn wire on 3LP.
	
		- Power On Both Sides = Switch Closed 
- Power on One Side Only = Switch Open ⇒ Check 3LP Pressure (below)
 
- Check 1LP Pressure
	
		- Use a pressure meter to check the pressure at the 1LP switch.
		
			- Watch for water in the pressure switch hoses.
 
- Compare actual pressure to pressure rating on the switch.
		
			- Pressure Near or Below Rating = Blocked or Restricted Vent 
- Pressure Well Above Rating + Open Switch = Bad Switch or Water in Switch
			
				- Water in Switch is usually caused by a mis-run pressure switch hose.
 
 
 
- Check 3LP Pressure
- Use a pressure meter to check the pressure at the 3LP switch.
- Compare actual pressure to pressure rating on the switch.
	
		- Pressure Near or Below Rating = Blocked Drain
- Pressure Well Above Rating + Open Switch = Bad Switch
 
3. Check Condensate Drainage
	- Check the Robber Drain Coupling on the inducer outlet.
	
		- On horizontal runs, make sure the drain outlets are pointed slightly down-hill.
- Remove drain hoses.
		
			- Water running out of coupling = Clogged Drainage
 
- ► Make sure there is nothing inside the drain coupling clogging the drain outlet.
 
- Check drain hoses from the collector box.
	
		- Make sure all drain hoses are clear and have a downward slope.
- ► Make sure the drain outlets are not clogged.
 
- ! Make sure there is an "Air-Gap" in the PVC drain immediately upon exiting the furnace !
	
		- Any trap after the collector box before an air gap will cause drainage issues.
 
- In extreme cold conditions, be cautious of Frozen Drains.