York Gas Furnace: TM9T
Re: Flashing Code 3
Code 3 = The normally open (1LP or 3LP) pressure switch contact did not close after the inducer was energized.
► This is a "Soft Lockout" which will automatically reset after 1 hour.
► There are 3 pressure switches on this furnace. 1LP (1st Stage Switch) and 3LP (Condensate Switch) are wired in series to the pressure switch input.
► The 2LP (2nd Stage Switch) wires in separately and will cause a Code 13.
Qty |
Possible Causes: |
1 |
Bad Inducer Motor or Capacitor |
|
Water in Vent |
4 |
Water in Inducer/Clogged Drain |
1 |
Improper Condensate Drainage |
|
Bad Pressure Switch |
|
Water in Pressure Switch / Tubing |
CHECKOUT:
1. Check Inducer Motor Operation
- Start the furnace with a call for heat from the thermostat.
- Observe and listen to the inducer motor operation.
- Inducer Motor Starts and Runs Normally → Step 2. Check Pressure Switch
- Inducer motor hums but does not start normally:
- Bad Inducer Motor or Capacitor
- Item in Inducer or Melted Blower Wheel ⇒ Remove inducer & check
- Sound of water "slurshing" = Water in Inducer ⇒ Remove the Inducer, pour out water, re-install inducer → Step 3. Check Condensate Drainage
- Listen for sounds of water in vent piping.
- If water is gurgling in vent, look for low spots that will hold water.
- Pipe must have constant slope back toward furnace.
2. Check Pressure Switches
- 1LP (1st Stage Switch)
- Check for 24VAC between "C" on the terminal block and the Blk/Org wire on 1LP.
- Check for 24VAC between "C" on the terminal block and the Wht wire on 1LP.
- Power On Both Sides = Switch Closed ⇒ Check 3LP Switch
- Power on One Side Only = Switch Open ⇒ Check 1LP Pressure (below)
- 3LP (Condensate Switch)
- Check for 24VAC between "C" on the terminal block and the Wht wire on 3LP.
- Check for 24VAC between "C" on the terminal block and the Red/Grn wire on 3LP.
- Power On Both Sides = Switch Closed
- Power on One Side Only = Switch Open ⇒ Check 3LP Pressure (below)
- Check 1LP Pressure
- Use a pressure meter to check the pressure at the 1LP switch.
- Watch for water in the pressure switch hoses.
- Compare actual pressure to pressure rating on the switch.
- Pressure Near or Below Rating = Blocked or Restricted Vent
- Pressure Well Above Rating + Open Switch = Bad Switch or Water in Switch
- Water in Switch is usually caused by a mis-run pressure switch hose.
- Check 3LP Pressure
- Use a pressure meter to check the pressure at the 3LP switch.
- Compare actual pressure to pressure rating on the switch.
- Pressure Near or Below Rating = Blocked Drain
- Pressure Well Above Rating + Open Switch = Bad Switch
3. Check Condensate Drainage
- Check the Robber Drain Coupling on the inducer outlet.
- On horizontal runs, make sure the drain outlets are pointed slightly down-hill.
- Remove drain hoses.
- Water running out of coupling = Clogged Drainage
- ► Make sure there is nothing inside the drain coupling clogging the drain outlet.
- Check drain hoses from the collector box.
- Make sure all drain hoses are clear and have a downward slope.
- ► Make sure the drain outlets are not clogged.
- ! Make sure there is an "Air-Gap" in the PVC drain immediately upon exiting the furnace !
- Any trap after the collector box before an air gap will cause drainage issues.
- In extreme cold conditions, be cautious of Frozen Drains.