Knowledgebase

Low Suction Pressure (Heating)

Article ID: 80
Last updated: 3 Mar, 2021

York Heat Pump: YHJF

Re: Low Suction Pressure in Heating Mode


Qty Possible Causes:
1 Low Refrigerant Charge
6 Bad Outdoor Expansion Valve
Defrost Problem
Bad Cod Fan Motor


CHECKOUT:

1. Check Equipment Status

  • Ensure that the outdoor coil is not frozen = Defrost Problem → Step 3. Check Defrost
  • Ensure that the outdoor fan is operating in the heating mode.
    • Compressor Running + No Outdoor Fan = Defrost Mode, Bad Fan Motor/Capacitor or Bad Control Board
      • Ensure unit is not in defrost mode (suction line should be hot in heating mode, cold in defrost mode)
      • Check for 230VAC between the "Common" (Black) and "Run" (Purple or Red) wires going to the motor.
        • Power + No Fan = Bad Cond Motor / Capacitor Check Capacitor
        • No Power = Bad Control Board

2. Check Refrigerant Pressures

  • If the outdoor coil is frozen → Step 3. Check Defrost (Do Not Attempt to Add Freon with a Frozen O/D Coil!)
  • Hook-up refrigerant gauges to the pressure ports on the unit.
    • Blue --> "True Suction" Port (Not The Suction Line)
    • Red --> High Pressure (either refrigerant line)
  • Monitor pressures as the system operates.
Normal Pressure Range
Refrigerant 0-30 Deg O/D 30-50 Deg O/D
R410A
  • 75-100 Suction
  • 250-320 Discharge
  • 100-150 Suction
  • 250-375 Discharge
  • If a Liquid-Line Sight Glass is installed, observe for bubbles in the sight glass (after the system has been operating for at least 5 min.)
    • Bubbles = Low Refrigerant Charge
  • Low Pressure Issues
    • Low Suction Pressure + Clear Sight Glass + Expansion Valve Frosting = Bad Expansion Valve (See "Expansion Valve Issues" in Related Articles)
    • Low Suction Pressure + Low Discharge Pressure + Bubbles in Sight Glass + Expansion Valve Frosting = Low Refrigerant Charge
      • Try adding refrigerant through the Low Pressure gauge.
        • Suction and Discharge Pressures should gradually increase as refrigerant is added.
        • If the Discharge Pressure increases but the Suction stays low or drops = Bad Expansion Valve (See "Expansion Valve Issues" in Related Articles)

3. Check Defrost

  • Cycle the heat pump through a defrost by shorting the TEST pins on the defrost board.
  • Observe refrigerant pressures (may need to switch Red hose to liquid line for cooling High Pressure)
  • Unit should terminate defrost somewhere around the following pressures:
    • 125 - 140 Suction 
    • 300 to 400 Discharge.

4. Check Air Temperature Rise

  • With the auxiliary heaters disconnected (remove "W1" and "W2" form the air handler terminal block):
    • Check the Return Air Temperature near the unit or in the filter compartment.
    • Check the Supply Air Temperature.
    • Normal Temperature Rise = 15-20 deg.
      • Abnormally Low Return Air Temperature ⇒ Check Return Ductwork for Cold Air Infiltration
      • Low Temperature Rise = Inefficient Operation
      • High Temperature Rise = Low Airflow
    • RE-HOOK "W1" AND "W2" WIRES ON THE AIR HANDLER!

This article was:   Helpful | Not helpful
Report an issue
Article ID: 80
Last updated: 3 Mar, 2021
Revision: 24
Access: Public
Views: 1032
Comments: 0
Also read