Heat Pump / Air Conditioner
Re: Compressor Not Running
The contactor is pulled-in but the compressor is not operating.
- No Compressor Amperage
- Equal Suction & Discharge Pressure
Qty |
Possible Causes: |
1 |
Bad Capacitor |
|
Internal Overload Open |
|
Locked-Up Compressor |
|
No Line Voltage |
|
Burnt Wires |
|
Bad Contactor |
CHECKOUT:
1. Check Power
- Disconnect power to the outdoor unit by pulling the service disconnect.
- Remove the outdoor unit electrical access panel.
- Look for any signs of burnt wires or controls.
- Re-apply power to the unit by re-inserting the service disconnect plug.
- Check for 230VAC power entering the contactor.
2. Check Compressor for Short
- Remove potential power from the unit by pulling the service disconnect.
- Check for a "Short-to-Ground" on the inlet power.
- At the contactor, check for resistance between both inlet power legs and ground.
- Any resistance = Electrical Short
- Remove inlet power from the contactor and re-check the inlet wiring and contactor separately.
- Check for a "Short-to-Ground" on the outlet power.
- At the contactor, check for resistance between both outlet power legs and ground.
- Any Resistance = Shorted Component
- Remove the compressor wiring (all 3 legs) and check resistance between each compressor terminal & ground.
- Any Resistance = Shorted Compressor Windings
- If no electrical short is identified, check the breaker at the breaker box and reset if necessary.
3. Check Capacitor
- Remove power to the unit by pulling the service disconnect.
- Identify the compressor capacitor.
- Discharge the capacitor by shorting the terminals with a screw driver.
- Remove the wires attached to "C" and "HERM".
- Move Multi-Meter leads to COM and MFD.
- Set Meter to 200 MFD.
- Place one lead on each side of the capacitor.
- Confirm MFD reading with capacitor rating.
- Less than 80% of rating = Bad Capacitor
- SWITCH METER LEADS BACK TO COM AND V BEFORE PROCEEDING!
4. Check Compressor Windings / Overload
- Remove power from the unit by pulling the service disconnect.
- Remove the compressor "Common" wire, either at the contactor or at the compressor.
- Check resistance of the compressor windings from "Common" to "Start" and "Common" to "Run".
- Resistance Between Each Winding = Compressor Ready to Start --> Step 5. Check Compressor / Contactor
- No Resistance on Either Winding = Burnt Compressor Terminal, Open Compressor Windings or Internal Overload Open
- Check the compressor temperature
- Cool compressor + No Resistance = Open Windings or Burnt Compressor Terminal
- Hot Compressor + No Resistance = Internal Overload Open
- It may be necessary to cool the compressor with water until the overload resets.
5. Check Compressor / Contactor
- Check to see if the contactor is physically pulled-in.
- Not Pulled-In --> Check for 24VAC across the contactor coil.
- Power but Not Pulled-In = Bad Contactor
- No Power = Thermostat not Calling or Safety Tripped
- Re-apply line voltage power by re-inserting the disconnect plug.
- Compressor Hums but Doesn't Start = Locked-Up Compressor
- Add a "Hard-Start" and Re-Try
- Compressor Doesn't Run or Attempt to Start:
- Re-check for 230VAC inlet power at the contactor.
- Check for 230VAC outlet power at the contactor.
- Contactor Pulled-in but No Power = Bad Contactor