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Heat Pump - Heating - High Electric Bill

Article ID: 166
Last updated: 16 Nov, 2017

York Heat Pumps: Heating

Re: High Electric Bill

When the customers reports an electric bill that is much higher than normal, that typically means that the auxiliary heaters are operating more than normal.

► The blower and auxiliary heaters are typically working normally or the customer would also be experiencing no heat.


Qty Possible Causes:
1 Refrigerant Charge
1 Bad Expansion Valve
No Power to O/D Unit
Bad Capacitor
Control in Lockout
Bad Compressor
Defrost Problem
Thermostat Issue
Ductwork Problem
Bad Control Board


CHECKOUT:

1. Check Unit Status & Power

  • Unit Status
  • Inspect the outdoor unit and make the outdoor coil is not frozen-over = Defrost Problem
  • Unit Operating --> Step 2. Check Compressor Operation
  • Power
  • Disconnect power to O/D unit by pulling disconnect or turning off breaker.
    • Open the electrical compartment cover. 
    • Inspect for burnt wiring or burnt contactor contacts.
  • Re-apply power to the unit.
  • Check for 200 - 240VAC power on the contactor inlet.
    • No Power = Tripped Breaker or Bad Wiring
  • Check for 24VAC between "R" and "C" on the defrost control board.
    • No Power = Blown Low Voltage Fuse or Bad Transformer
  • Set the Thermostat to call for heat.
    • Check for 24VAC between "Y" and "C" on the defrost control board.
      • No Power = No Call from the Thermostat --> Check Thermostat
      • Power --> Compressor and Condenser Fan should start within 5 minutes.

2. Check Compressor Operation

  • Re-Apply Power to the unit (if turned off from previous step).
    • Compressor and Condenser Fan start and run normally --> Step 3. Check Refrigerant Pressures
    • Compressor Does Not Try to Start = Control in Lockout, Bad Control Board or Bad Contactor
      • Check for 24VAC between each "Pressure Switch" terminal and "C" on the defrost board.
        • Power on one side but not the other = Open Hi or Lo Pressure Switch
        • Power on both sides = Pressure Safeties OK --> Reset control by disconnecting "R" and "Y" from the board then re-check.
          • Short the "TEST" terminals on the defrost control to bypass the "Wait" timer.
          • Check for 24VAC across both contactor coil wires.
            • Power but contactor doesn't pull-in = Bad Contactor
            • No Power --> Suspect Bad Control Board
    • Compressor Hums but Doesn't Run = Bad Capacitor, Locked-up Compressor, or Burnt Compressor Wiring

3. Check Refrigerant Pressures

  • Hook-up refrigerant gauges to the pressure ports on the unit.
    • Blue --> "True Suction" Low Pressure
    • Red --> High Pressure (either refrigerant line)
  • Monitor pressures as the system operates.
Normal Pressure Range
Refrigerant 0-30 Deg O/D 30-50 Deg O/D
R-22
  • 20-40 Suction
  • 150-225 Discharge
  • 40-75 Suction
  • 170-260 Discharge
R410A
  • 75-100 Suction
  • 250-320 Discharge
  • 100-150 Suction
  • 250-375 Discharge
  • If a Liquid-Line Sight Glass is installed, observe for bubbles in the sight glass (after the system has been operating for at least 5 min.)
    • Bubbles = Low Refrigerant Charge
  • Low Pressure Issues
    • Low Suction + Low Discharge + Bubbles in Sight Glass + Expansion Valve Frosting = Low Refrigerant Charge
      • Try adding refrigerant through the Low Pressure gauge.
        • Suction and Discharge Pressures should gradually increase as refrigerant is added.
        • If the Discharge Pressure increases but the Suction stays low or drops = Bad Expansion Valve
    • Low Suction + Low Discharge + Clear Sight Glass + Expansion Valve Frosting = Bad Expansion Valve 
  • High Pressure Issues
    • Place an insulated temperature probe on the liquid line between the evaporator coil & O/D expansion valve.
    • Allow the unit to run for at least 10 minutes.
    • Monitor pressures and temperature as the system operates.
      • If pressure exceeds Normal Range or kicks-off on Hi Pressure safety in the first 5 minutes = Refrigerant Overcharge or No Indoor Blower
    • Check Sub-Cooling
      • Record "Saturation Temperature" from the discharge pressure gauge.
      • Subtract the Actual liquid line temperature reading.
        • Saturation Temp - Liquid Line Temp = Sub-Cooling
          • Sub-Cooling > 13 deg. + High Discharge + High Suction = Overcharged
          • Sub-Cooling > 13 deg. + High Discharge + Low Suction = Bad Expansion Valve
          • Sub-Cooling < 2 deg. + High Discharge = Low Indoor Heat Transfer --> Step 5. Check Air Temperature Rise

4. Check Compressor Discharge Temperature

  • Use a multi-meter to check the temperature of the compressor discharge line.
  • Normal Temperature = 120 - 150 deg.
    • Low Discharge Temp = Inefficient Operation

5. Check Air Temperature Rise

  • With the auxiliary heaters disconnected (remove "W1" and "W2" form the air handler terminal block):
    • Check the Return Air Temperature near the unit or in the filter compartment.
    • Check the Supply Air Temperature.
    • Normal Temperature Rise = 15-20 deg.
      • Abnormally Low Return Air Temperature --> Check Return Ductwork for Cold Air Infiltration
      • Low Temperature Rise = Inefficient Operation
      • High Temperature Rise = Low Airflow
    • RE-HOOK "W1" AND "W2" WIRES ON THE AIR HANDLER!

6. Check Thermostat Aux Settings (New VisionPro 8000)

  • Check the Aux Heat Control Setting
    • Under Installer Setup, go to Setup #309
      • Change from "comfort" to "2.0" or "3.0"
    • Press Done to save changes.
      • This change doesn't allow Aux Ht operation unless the indoor temperature drops [#309] degrees below setpoint.

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Article ID: 166
Last updated: 16 Nov, 2017
Revision: 26
Access: Public
Views: 80
Comments: 0
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