York Heat Pumps: Heating
Re: High Electric Bill
When the customers reports an electric bill that is much higher than normal, that typically means that the auxiliary heaters are operating more than normal.
► The blower and auxiliary heaters are typically working normally or the customer would also be experiencing no heat.
Qty |
Possible Causes: |
1 |
Refrigerant Charge |
1 |
Bad Expansion Valve |
|
No Power to O/D Unit |
|
Bad Capacitor |
|
Control in Lockout |
|
Bad Compressor |
|
Defrost Problem |
|
Thermostat Issue |
|
Ductwork Problem |
|
Bad Control Board |
CHECKOUT:
1. Check Unit Status & Power
- Unit Status
- Inspect the outdoor unit and make the outdoor coil is not frozen-over = Defrost Problem
- Unit Operating --> Step 2. Check Compressor Operation
- Power
- Disconnect power to O/D unit by pulling disconnect or turning off breaker.
- Open the electrical compartment cover.
- Inspect for burnt wiring or burnt contactor contacts.
- Re-apply power to the unit.
- Check for 200 - 240VAC power on the contactor inlet.
- No Power = Tripped Breaker or Bad Wiring
- Check for 24VAC between "R" and "C" on the defrost control board.
- No Power = Blown Low Voltage Fuse or Bad Transformer
- Set the Thermostat to call for heat.
- Check for 24VAC between "Y" and "C" on the defrost control board.
- No Power = No Call from the Thermostat --> Check Thermostat
- Power --> Compressor and Condenser Fan should start within 5 minutes.
2. Check Compressor Operation
- Re-Apply Power to the unit (if turned off from previous step).
- Compressor and Condenser Fan start and run normally --> Step 3. Check Refrigerant Pressures
- Compressor Does Not Try to Start = Control in Lockout, Bad Control Board or Bad Contactor
- Check for 24VAC between each "Pressure Switch" terminal and "C" on the defrost board.
- Power on one side but not the other = Open Hi or Lo Pressure Switch
- Power on both sides = Pressure Safeties OK --> Reset control by disconnecting "R" and "Y" from the board then re-check.
- Short the "TEST" terminals on the defrost control to bypass the "Wait" timer.
- Check for 24VAC across both contactor coil wires.
- Power but contactor doesn't pull-in = Bad Contactor
- No Power --> Suspect Bad Control Board
- Compressor Hums but Doesn't Run = Bad Capacitor, Locked-up Compressor, or Burnt Compressor Wiring
3. Check Refrigerant Pressures
- Hook-up refrigerant gauges to the pressure ports on the unit.
- Blue --> "True Suction" Low Pressure
- Red --> High Pressure (either refrigerant line)
- Monitor pressures as the system operates.
Normal Pressure Range |
Refrigerant |
0-30 Deg O/D |
30-50 Deg O/D |
R-22 |
- 20-40 Suction
- 150-225 Discharge
|
- 40-75 Suction
- 170-260 Discharge
|
R410A |
- 75-100 Suction
- 250-320 Discharge
|
- 100-150 Suction
- 250-375 Discharge
|
- If a Liquid-Line Sight Glass is installed, observe for bubbles in the sight glass (after the system has been operating for at least 5 min.)
- Bubbles = Low Refrigerant Charge
- Low Pressure Issues
- Low Suction + Low Discharge + Bubbles in Sight Glass + Expansion Valve Frosting = Low Refrigerant Charge
- Try adding refrigerant through the Low Pressure gauge.
- Suction and Discharge Pressures should gradually increase as refrigerant is added.
- If the Discharge Pressure increases but the Suction stays low or drops = Bad Expansion Valve
- Low Suction + Low Discharge + Clear Sight Glass + Expansion Valve Frosting = Bad Expansion Valve
- High Pressure Issues
- Place an insulated temperature probe on the liquid line between the evaporator coil & O/D expansion valve.
- Allow the unit to run for at least 10 minutes.
- Monitor pressures and temperature as the system operates.
- If pressure exceeds Normal Range or kicks-off on Hi Pressure safety in the first 5 minutes = Refrigerant Overcharge or No Indoor Blower
- Check Sub-Cooling
- Record "Saturation Temperature" from the discharge pressure gauge.
- Subtract the Actual liquid line temperature reading.
- Saturation Temp - Liquid Line Temp = Sub-Cooling
- Sub-Cooling > 13 deg. + High Discharge + High Suction = Overcharged
- Sub-Cooling > 13 deg. + High Discharge + Low Suction = Bad Expansion Valve
- Sub-Cooling < 2 deg. + High Discharge = Low Indoor Heat Transfer --> Step 5. Check Air Temperature Rise
4. Check Compressor Discharge Temperature
- Use a multi-meter to check the temperature of the compressor discharge line.
- Normal Temperature = 120 - 150 deg.
- Low Discharge Temp = Inefficient Operation
5. Check Air Temperature Rise
- With the auxiliary heaters disconnected (remove "W1" and "W2" form the air handler terminal block):
- Check the Return Air Temperature near the unit or in the filter compartment.
- Check the Supply Air Temperature.
- Normal Temperature Rise = 15-20 deg.
- Abnormally Low Return Air Temperature --> Check Return Ductwork for Cold Air Infiltration
- Low Temperature Rise = Inefficient Operation
- High Temperature Rise = Low Airflow
- RE-HOOK "W1" AND "W2" WIRES ON THE AIR HANDLER!
6. Check Thermostat Aux Settings (New VisionPro 8000)
- Check the Aux Heat Control Setting
- Under Installer Setup, go to Setup #309
- Change from "comfort" to "2.0" or "3.0"
- Press Done to save changes.
- This change doesn't allow Aux Ht operation unless the indoor temperature drops [#309] degrees below setpoint.