Climatemaster Geothermal: GSV/GSH
Re: Code 2 / High Pressure Fault (Heating)
Code 2 = High Pressure Fault
► There may be an optional High Water Temperature Switch (HWTS) or a High Water Pressure Switches (HWPS) wired in series with the refrigerant High Pressure Switch.
► When the high pressure switch circuit opens the compressor relay is de-energized immediately since the high pressure switch is in series with the compressor contactor coil.
Qty |
Possible Causes: |
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Refrigerant Over-Charge |
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Low Airflow |
1 |
Bad Blower Motor / Capacitor |
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Bad Blower Relay |
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Bad Expansion Valve |
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Bad Pressure Switch |
CHECKOUT:
1. Check Indoor Airflow
- Set the thermostat to call for heat.
- Confirm that the indoor fan is operating and air is blowing out of the supply registers
2. Check Blower Motor
- These units use a standard PSC Indoor Blower Motor, controlled by a Fan Relay.
- Check for 230VAC between the Blue and Yellow wires feeding the motor on a call for "G".
- 230V Power Present + No Blower Operation = Bad Blower Motor or Capacitor ⇒ Test the Capacitor
- No Power ⇒ Check for 24VAC between BR and BRG at the control board on a call for "G".
- No Power = Bad CXM Control Board
- 24V Power + No 230V Power = Bad Blower Relay
3. Check Operating Conditions
- If the heat pump is in lockout, reset by removing 24VAC power to the control board.
- Unplug the 3-wire heater connector from the control board to temporarily prevent aux heater operation.
- Allow the unit to operate for at least 5 minutes.
- If the unit kicks-off on Hi Pressure safety in the first 5 minutes = Bad Overcharge, Refrigerant Restriction or No Airflow
- If the compressor never kicks on & the control locks-out on High Pressure ⇒ Suspect a Bad Pressure Switch
- Unplug the HWG pump motor (if the HWG piping is hooked-up and active).
- Check and record the Water Pressure Drop through the geo-thermal unit.
- Check and record the Entering Water Temperature and the Leaving Water Temperature.
- Check and record Refrigerant Pressures.
- Calculate Subcooling.
- High Pressure Gauge Temp - Liquid Line Temp = Sub-Cooling
- Check and record the Air Temperature Rise through the unit.
- Compare operating conditions to Unit Performance Chart.
- High Subcooling + High Discharge Pressure + High Suction = Overcharged
- High Subcooling + High Discharge Pressure + Low Suction = Bad Expansion Valve
- Low Subcooling + High Discharge Pressure + High Air Temp = Low Indoor Airflow or Heat Transfer → Step 4. Check Air Filter & Indoor Coil
► Be sure to re-connect the 3-wire heater plug and HWG pump before closing the unit.
4. Check Air Filter & Indoor Coil
- A dirty air filter or indoor coil generally won't cause a Code 2 due to the nature of a V/S blower unless badly clogged.
- Remove the Air Filter and Check for a Dirty Indoor Coil
- If the Indoor Coil is OK ⇒ Re-Check Temperature Rise with the filter removed.
- No Change = Restricted Ductwork or Low Blower Speed → Step 5. Check Duct Static Pressure
- Temperature Rise Becomes Normal = Clogged or Restrictive Air Filter ⇒ Replace Filter & Re-Check Pressures
5. Check Duct Static Pressure
- Check the return duct static pressure.
- Check the supply duct static pressure.
- High Static = Above 0.5" w.c.
- High Return Static + Low Supply Static = Restricted Return Ductwork
- Low Return Static + High Supply Static = Restricted Supply Ductwork
- Static Pressure Normal ⇒ Increase Blower Speed or Clean Blower Wheel