York Heat Pump: EFH
Re: Not Defrosting / Outdoor Coil Frozen
These units use a Yorkguard Demand Defrost control board.
The board uses an Ambient (outdoor) Sensor and Liquid Line Sensor to determine the proper conditions for defrost to occur.
Qty |
Possible Causes: |
1 |
Bad Liquid Line Sensor |
|
Bad Condenser Fan Motor |
|
Bad Fan Capacitor |
|
Bad Defrost Board |
1 |
Mis-Located Sensor |
|
Low Refrigerant Charge |
|
Bad Expansion Valve |
CHECKOUT:
1. Check Outdoor Fan
- Inspect the outdoor unit and make sure the outdoor fan is operating.
- Fan Operating → Step 2. Test Defrost Cycle
- No Fan ⇒ Check for 230VAC to the fan motor between the Purple and Black wires.
- No Power = Bad Control Board or Unit in Defrost
- Power + No Fan Operation = Bad Fan Motor or Capacitor ⇒ Check Capacitor
2. Check Defrost
- Yorkguard V
- Jump the two "TEST" pins on the outdoor unit control board.
- If the outdoor (ambient) temperature is below 50 deg. the unit should enter a defrost mode.
- Ensure that the outdoor fan shuts-off and the reversing valve switches to cooling mode.
3. Check Liquid Line Sensor
- Disconnect high voltage power from the unit by pulling the service disconnect or turning the breaker off.
- Disconnect low voltage from the defrost board by removing the Red, "R" wire.
- Sensor Resistance
- Disconnect the two wires from the defrost board connected to "LL".
- Set the multi-meter on 200K Ohms.
- Test resistance of the sensor.
- Use Resistance Chart to determine sensed temperature.
- If sensed temperature is more than 5 deg. higher or lower than the actual temperature = Bad Liquid Line Sensor
- Sensor Location
- It is very common for technicians to put the liquid line sensor in the wrong location (which can cause the unit to terminate defrost before the coil is thawed).
- The sensor must be located on the condenser coil side of the metering device, as close to the metering device as possible.
- With an expansion valve, it is possible to mount the sensor between the valve and the coil distributor.
- With an orifice, the proper location is typically where one of the distributor lines ties into a short 3/8" piece of copper at the coil.
4. Check Ambient Sensor
- Disconnect high voltage power from the unit by pulling the service disconnect or turning the breaker off.
- Disconnect low voltage from the defrost board by removing the Red, "R" wire.
- Disconnect the two wires from the defrost board connected to "OD".
- Set the multi-meter on 200K Ohms.
- Test resistance of the sensor.
- Use Resistance Chart to determine sensed temperature.
- If sensed temperature is more than 5 deg. higher or lower than the actual temperature = Bad Ambient Sensor
- Ambient Temperature reading less than 50 deg and the board will not initiate defrost = Bad Defrost Board
5. Check Refrigerant Pressures
- Hook-up refrigerant gauges to the pressure ports on the unit.
- Blue --> "True Suction" Low Pressure
- Red --> High Pressure (either refrigerant line)
- Monitor pressures as the system operates.
Normal Pressure Range |
Refrigerant |
0-30 Deg O/D |
30-50 Deg O/D |
R-22 |
- 20-45 Suction
- 175-225 Discharge
|
- 40-55 Suction
- 180-250 Discharge
|
- If a Liquid-Line Sight Glass is installed, observe for bubbles in the sight glass (after the system has been operating for at least 5 min.)
- Bubbles = Low Refrigerant Charge
- Low Pressure Issues
- Low Suction + Low Discharge + Bubbles in Sight Glass + Expansion Valve Frosting = Low Refrigerant Charge
- Try adding refrigerant through the Low Pressure gauge.
- Suction and Discharge Pressures should gradually increase as refrigerant is added.
- If the Discharge Pressure increases but the Suction stays low or drops = Bad O/D Expansion Valve
- Low Suction + Low Discharge + Clear Sight Glass + Expansion Valve Frosting = Bad O/D Expansion Valve