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Heat Pump - Flashing Code 2 (Cooling)

Article ID: 129
Last updated: 6 Feb, 2023

York Heat Pump: Yorkguard IV & Yorkguard V

Re: Flashing Code 2 (Cooling)

Code 2 = High Discharge Pressure

If the Hi Pressure circuit input on the Yorkguard opens, the module will go into a Code 2 lockout and disable compressor operation.


Qty Possible Causes (Cooling):
Bad Capacitor
Bad Cond Fan Motor
Refrigerant Overcharge
Mis-Sized Fan Blades
Bad Pressure Switch
Dirty Outdoor Coil
Bad Defrost Relay


CHECKOUT:

1. Check Unit Operation

  • Set the thermostat to call for cooling.
  • Allow 5 minutes for anti-short-cycle delay or jump Test pins (Yorkguard V only) to bypass timer.
  • Observe the outdoor unit to ensure that the compressor and condenser fan motor start.
    • Unit Starts and Runs Normally → Step 3. Check Refrigerant Pressures
    • Unit Doesn't Start ⇒ Check Control Board Diagnostic Light
      • Flashing Code 2 = Still Locked-Out
        • Reset by removing and reconnecting "R" and "Y" at the o/d unit control board for at least 5 seconds.
    • If the control board re-enters Code 2 without starting the compressor = Bad Pressure Switch

2. Check O/D Motor & Capacitor

  • Check Capacitor
    • Turn off power to the unit by pulling the service disconnect or by turning the breaker off.
      • Use a multi-meter to confirm that voltage is not present.
    • Remove capacitor wires (short before touching)
    • Move Multi-Meter leads to COM and MFD.
    • Set Meter to 200 MFD.
    • Place one lead on "C" or "Com" of the capacitor and the other on "Fan".
    • Confirm MFD reading with capacitor rating.
      • Less than 80% of rating = Bad Capacitor
    • SWITCH METER LEADS BACK TO COM AND V BEFORE PROCEEDING!
  • Check Motor
    • Re-apply power to the heat pump.
    • Set the thermostat to call for cool.
    • Check for 24VAC from "Y" to "C" on the low voltage wiring.
      • No Power = No call for cool from the thermostat.
    • When the compressor contactor energizes, check for 230V to the motor between "C" or "COM" at the capacitor and the Black motor wire.
      • Power + No Motor Operation = Bad Blower Motor
      • No Power = Bad Defrost Relay (Yorkguard IV) or Bad Control Board (Yorkguard V)

3. Check Refrigerant Pressures

  • If the heat pump is in lockout (still flashng a code), reset by cycling 24VAC power to the outdoor control board (remove "R" and "Y" or cycle power to the air handler).
  • Hook-up refrigerant gauges to the pressure ports on the unit.
    • Blue --> "True Suction" Low Pressure
    • Red --> High Pressure (either refrigerant line)
  • Monitor pressures as the system operates.
Normal Pressure Range
Refrigerant 55-75 Deg O/D 75-95 Deg O/D
R-22
  • 55-70 Suction
  • 150-225 Discharge
  • 55-80 Suction
  • 175-270 Discharge
R410A
  • 100-135 Suction
  • 250-320 Discharge
  • 120 -150 Suction
  • 300 - 450 Discharge
  • Pressure switch trips immediately or while discharge pressure is in a normal operating range = Bad Pressure Switch.
  • High Pressure Issues
    • Place an insulated temperature probe on the liquid line between the outdoor unit & indoor expansion valve.
    • Allow the unit to run for at least 10 minutes.
    • Monitor pressures and temperature as the system operates.
      • If pressure exceeds Normal Range and kicks-off on Hi Pressure safety in the first 5 minutes = Refrigerant Overcharge or Restriction
    • Check Sub-Cooling
      • Record "Saturation Temperature" from the discharge pressure gauge.
      • Subtract the Actual liquid line temperature reading.
        • Saturation Temp - Liquid Line Temp = Sub-Cooling
        • Sub-Cooling > 13 deg. + High Discharge + High Suction = Overcharged
        • Sub-Cooling > 13 deg. + High Discharge + Low Suction = Bad Expansion Valve
        • Sub-Cooling < 2 deg. + High Discharge = Low Outdoor Heat Transfer (Dirty Coil, Wrong Fan Blade, etc.)
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Article ID: 129
Last updated: 6 Feb, 2023
Revision: 10
Access: Public
Views: 424
Comments: 0
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