York Heat Pump: Yorkguard IV & Yorkguard V
Re: Flashing Code 2 (Cooling)
Code 2 = High Discharge Pressure
If the Hi Pressure circuit input on the Yorkguard opens, the module will go into a Code 2 lockout and disable compressor operation.
Qty |
Possible Causes (Cooling): |
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Bad Capacitor |
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Bad Cond Fan Motor |
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Refrigerant Overcharge |
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Mis-Sized Fan Blades |
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Bad Pressure Switch |
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Dirty Outdoor Coil |
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Bad Defrost Relay |
CHECKOUT:
1. Check Unit Operation
- Set the thermostat to call for cooling.
- Allow 5 minutes for anti-short-cycle delay or jump Test pins (Yorkguard V only) to bypass timer.
- Observe the outdoor unit to ensure that the compressor and condenser fan motor start.
- Unit Starts and Runs Normally → Step 3. Check Refrigerant Pressures
- Unit Doesn't Start ⇒ Check Control Board Diagnostic Light
- Flashing Code 2 = Still Locked-Out
- Reset by removing and reconnecting "R" and "Y" at the o/d unit control board for at least 5 seconds.
- If the control board re-enters Code 2 without starting the compressor = Bad Pressure Switch
2. Check O/D Motor & Capacitor
- Check Capacitor
- Turn off power to the unit by pulling the service disconnect or by turning the breaker off.
- Use a multi-meter to confirm that voltage is not present.
- Remove capacitor wires (short before touching)
- Move Multi-Meter leads to COM and MFD.
- Set Meter to 200 MFD.
- Place one lead on "C" or "Com" of the capacitor and the other on "Fan".
- Confirm MFD reading with capacitor rating.
- Less than 80% of rating = Bad Capacitor
- SWITCH METER LEADS BACK TO COM AND V BEFORE PROCEEDING!
- Check Motor
- Re-apply power to the heat pump.
- Set the thermostat to call for cool.
- Check for 24VAC from "Y" to "C" on the low voltage wiring.
- No Power = No call for cool from the thermostat.
- When the compressor contactor energizes, check for 230V to the motor between "C" or "COM" at the capacitor and the Black motor wire.
- Power + No Motor Operation = Bad Blower Motor
- No Power = Bad Defrost Relay (Yorkguard IV) or Bad Control Board (Yorkguard V)
3. Check Refrigerant Pressures
- If the heat pump is in lockout (still flashng a code), reset by cycling 24VAC power to the outdoor control board (remove "R" and "Y" or cycle power to the air handler).
- Hook-up refrigerant gauges to the pressure ports on the unit.
- Blue --> "True Suction" Low Pressure
- Red --> High Pressure (either refrigerant line)
- Monitor pressures as the system operates.
Normal Pressure Range |
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Refrigerant |
55-75 Deg O/D |
75-95 Deg O/D |
R-22 |
- 55-70 Suction
- 150-225 Discharge
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- 55-80 Suction
- 175-270 Discharge
|
R410A |
- 100-135 Suction
- 250-320 Discharge
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- 120 -150 Suction
- 300 - 450 Discharge
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- Pressure switch trips immediately or while discharge pressure is in a normal operating range = Bad Pressure Switch.
- High Pressure Issues
- Place an insulated temperature probe on the liquid line between the outdoor unit & indoor expansion valve.
- Allow the unit to run for at least 10 minutes.
- Monitor pressures and temperature as the system operates.
- If pressure exceeds Normal Range and kicks-off on Hi Pressure safety in the first 5 minutes = Refrigerant Overcharge or Restriction
- Check Sub-Cooling
- Record "Saturation Temperature" from the discharge pressure gauge.
- Subtract the Actual liquid line temperature reading.
- Saturation Temp - Liquid Line Temp = Sub-Cooling
- Sub-Cooling > 13 deg. + High Discharge + High Suction = Overcharged
- Sub-Cooling > 13 deg. + High Discharge + Low Suction = Bad Expansion Valve
- Sub-Cooling < 2 deg. + High Discharge = Low Outdoor Heat Transfer (Dirty Coil, Wrong Fan Blade, etc.)