Goodman Gas Furnace: GMP
Re: Flashing Code 4
(Assuming original control board)
If the limit control opens, the burners will be de-energized and the air circulation and vent blower will be turned on until the limit closes. The diagnostic light code for this is four short flashes followed by a pause.
► The diagnostic code will go away once the limit switch closes.
► A Code 4 usually isn't a reason for a "No Heat" call. The furnace will re-fire once the limit cools and re-closes.
Qty |
Possible Causes: |
1 |
Bad Limit |
1 |
Bad Control Board |
|
Bad Blower Capacitor |
|
Bad Blower Motor |
|
Blown Low Voltage Fuse |
|
Dirty Air Filter |
|
Clogged Evaporator Coil |
|
Under-sized Ductwork |
|
High Gas Pressure |
CHECKOUT:
1. Check Operation
- Set the thermostat to call for heat.
- Check for 24VAC between the Red wire on Pin #3 and the Blue wire on Pin #6 on the control board.
- No Power = No High Voltage Power or Bad Transformer
- Power Present --> Continue
- Check for 24VAC between "R" and Gnd on the low voltage wiring.
- No Power on "R" = Blown Low Voltage Fuse or Open Limit
- Check for 24VAC power from both side of the Low Voltage Fuse to Gnd.
- Power on one side but not the other = Blown Low Voltage Fuse
- Power on Both Sides + No Power on "R" = Bad Control Board
- Power on "R" --> Continue
- Check for 24VAC between "W" and Gnd.
- No Power = No Call for Heat from the Thermostat
- Power on "W" + Code 4 = Open Limit or Bad Control Board
- Check for 24VAC from Pin #5 and Pin# 9 on the control board to Gnd.
- Power on both + Code 4 = Bad Control Board
- Power on one but not the other = Open Limit
2. Check Blower Operation
- After the burners fire, ensure that the blower motor starts (up to 30 second delay).
- Check Capacitor
- Turn off all power to the furnace unit.
- Use a multi-meter to confirm that voltage is not present.
- Remove capacitor wires (short before touching)
- Move Multi-Meter leads to COM and MFD.
- Set Meter to 200 MFD.
- Place one lead on each side of the capacitor.
- Confirm MFD reading with capacitor rating.
- Less than 80% of rating = Bad Capacitor
- SWITCH METER LEADS BACK TO COM AND V BEFORE PROCEEDING!
- Check Blower Motor
- Re-apply power to the furnace.
- Set the thermostat to call for heat.
- After the burners ignite, wait 30 seconds then check power to the blower motor.
- Check for 120VAC from the control board Neutral block to the control board "Heat" fan output.
- Power but No Motor Operation = Bad Blower Motor
- No Power = Bad Control Board
3. Check Temperature Rise
- Start the furnace with a call for heat.
- Allow the furnace to operate for at least 5 minutes.
- Check and record the return air temperature near the furnace (at the filter if possible) with the blower on.
- Check the supply air temperature (in a straight duct run near the furnace) as the furnace operates.
- Compare the actual temperature rise to the rated temperature rise on the furnace nameplate.
- Temperature rise at or above maximum + Limit Trips --> Step 2. Check Air Filter
- Temperature rise below maximum + Limit Trips = Bad Limit
4. Check Air Filter
- Remove air filter and recheck the temperature rise.
5. Check Gas Pressure
- De-energize the call for heat and allow the furnace to cool.
- Turn off power to the furnace and close the gas safety shut-off.
- Hook-up a gas pressure gauge to the manifold (leaving) test port on the gas valve.
- Open the gas safety shut-off valve and re-apply furnace power.
- Activate a call for heat and monitor the manifold gas pressure when the gas valve opens.
- Natural Gas = 2.5" w.c. minimum to 3.5" w.c. maximum
- LP Gas = 9" w.c. minimum to 11" w.c. maximum
6. Check Blower Speed
- Check the blower motor speed wire attached to the "Heat" output of the control board.
- Red = Low
- Yellow = Med Low
- Blue = Med Hi
- Black = Hi
- If possible, increase the Heat blower speed and Re-Check Temperature Rise
7. Check Duct Static Pressure
- Check the return static pressure (in the blower door if possible).
- Check the supply static pressure (between the furnace and evaporator coil if possible).
- High Duct Static = Above 0.5" w.c.
- High Return Static + Low Supply Static = Restricted Return Ductwork
- Low Return Static + High Supply Static = Clogged Coil or Restricted Supply Ductwork
- Compare static on both sides of evaporator coil.
- High Static Entering Coil + Low Static Leaving Coil = Clogged Coil