Climatemaster Geothermal: Heating
Re: Code 2 / High Pressure Fault
Code 2 = High Pressure Fault
When the high pressure switch opens due to high refrigerant pressures the compressor relay is de-energized immediately since the high pressure switch is in series with the compressor contactor coil.
Qty |
Possible Causes: |
1 |
Refrigerant OverCharge |
|
Bad Expansion Valve |
|
Bad Blower Motor / Capacitor |
|
Bad CFM Board |
1 |
Low Indoor Airflow |
|
Refrigerant Restriction |
|
Bad Pressure Switch |
CHECKOUT:
1. Check Indoor Airflow
- Set the thermostat to call for heat.
- Confirm that the indoor fan is operating and air is blowing out of the supply registers
2. Check Blower Motor
- These units use with a Variable Speed Indoor Blower.
- Confirm that 240VAC is being supplied to the motor.
- Confirm that 24VAC is present between "C" and "G", "Y1" or "Y2".
- No 24VAC power = No signal from thermostat
- 240V Power Present + 24V Power Present + No Blower Operation = Bad Blower Motor or Bad CFM Board
3. Check Operating Conditions
- If the heat pump is in lockout, reset by removing 24VAC power to the control board.
- Ensure that the unit is running at full capacity (Y1 & Y2 Energized).
- Unplug the 3-wire heater connector from the control board to temporarily prevent aux heater operation.
- Allow the unit to operate for at least 5 minutes.
- If the unit kicks-off on Hi Pressure safety in the first 5 minutes = Bad Overcharge, Refrigerant Restriction or No Airflow
- If the compressor never kicks on & the control locks-out on High Pressure ⇒ Suspect a Bad Pressure Switch
- Unplug the HWG pump motor (if the HWG piping is hooked-up and active).
- Check and record the Water Pressure Drop through the geo-thermal unit.
- Check and record the Entering Water Temperature and the Leaving Water Temperature.
- Check and record Refrigerant Pressures.
- Calculate Subcooling.
- High Pressure GaugeTemp - Liquid Line Temp = Sub-Cooling
- Check and record the Air Temperature Rise through the unit.
- Compare operating conditions to Unit Performance Chart.
- High Subcooling + High Dicsh Pressure + High Suction = Overcharged
- High Subcooling + High Disch Pressure + Low Suction = Bad Expansion Valve
- Low Subcooling + High Disch Pressure + High Air Temp = Low Indoor Airflow or Heat Transfer → Step 4. Check Air Filter & Indoor Coil
► Be sure to re-connect the 3-wire heater plug and HWG pump before closing the unit.
4. Check Air Filter & Indoor Coil
- A dirty air filter or indoor coil generally won't cause a Code 2 due to the nature of a V/S blower unless badly clogged.
- Remove Air Filter and Check for a Dirty Indoor Coil
- If the Indoor Coil is OK --> Re-Check Temperature Rise with the filter removed.
- No Change = Restricted Ductwork or Low Blower Speed → Step 5. Check Duct Static Pressure
- Temperature Rise Becomes Normal = Clogged Air Filter ⇒ Replace Filter & Re-Check Pressures
5. Check Duct Static Pressure
- High duct static generally won't cause a Code 2 due to the nature of a V/S blower unless badly restricted.
- Check the return duct static pressure.
- Check the supply duct static pressure.
- High Static = Above 0.5" w.c.
- High Return Static + Low Supply Static = Restricted Return Ductwork
- Low Return Static + High Supply Static = Restricted Supply Ductwork
- Static Pressure Normal ⇒ Increase Blower Speed or Clean Blower Wheel