Knowledgebase

M4HP4 - Defrost Problem / Outdoor Coil Frozen

Article ID: 664
Last updated: 22 Dec, 2020

Ameristar Heat Pump: M4HP4

Re: Defrosting Problem / Outdoor Coil Frozen

The M4HP4 uses a "Hybrid" Demand Defrost control board with a timer.

The board uses an Ambient (outdoor) Sensor, a Liquid Line Sensor and an adjustable 30 or 60 min. timer to determine when defrost should occur.


Qty Possible Causes:
Bad Liquid Line Sensor
Bad Defrost Board
Bad Condenser Fan Motor
Mis-Placed Coil Sensor
Bad Fan Capacitor
Low Refrigerant Charge
Bad Expansion Valve
Stuck Contactor


CHECKOUT:

1. Check Contactor 

  • If the outdoor unit is not operating → Step 2. Check Outdoor Fan
  • If the outdoor unit is running, check for 24VAC across the contactor coil.
    • No Power + Unit Running = Stuck Contactor

2. Check Outdoor Fan

  • If the outdoor unit is not operating, set the thermostat to call for heat.
  • Inspect the outdoor unit and make sure the outdoor fan is operating.
    • Fan Operating → Step 3. Test Defrost Cycle
    • No Fan ⇒ Check for 230VAC to the fan motor on the Black wire (at the contactor) and the Black wire on [FAN] at the Defrost Board.
      • No Power = Bad Defrost Board or Unit in Defrost
      • Power Present + No Fan = Bad Condenser Fan Motor or Bad Capacitor ⇒ Test Capacitor

3. Test Defrost Cycle

  • Force the unit into defrost by setting SW3-1 to ON.
  • The unit should enter a Defrost Mode and terminate when the T3 sensor reaches 77 deg or after 10 min.
  • Set SW3-1 back to OFF after a manual defrost.

4. Check Liquid Line Sensor

  • Disconnect high voltage power from the unit by pulling the service disconnect or turning the breaker off.
  • Disconnect low voltage terminal plug from the Defrost Board.
  • Disconnect the Black [T3] connector from the Defrost Board .
  • Set the multi-meter on 200K (not 200) Ohms.
  • Test resistance of the sensor.
  • Use Resistance Chart to determine sensed temperature.
  • Compare sensed temperature to actual temperature.
    • If sensed temperature is more than 5 deg. higher or lower than actual temperature = Bad Liquid Line Sensor
    • If sensor reads correct but terminates defrost too soon ⇒ Look for Mis-Placed Coil Sensor
      • Sensor should be between the O/D Expansion Valve and the Condenser Coil on one of the feeder lines (typically a short stub of 3/8" pipe at the coil).

5. Check Refrigerant Pressures

  • Hook-up refrigerant gauges to the pressure ports on the unit.
    • Blue --> "True Suction" Port (Not the Suction Line)
    • Red --> High Pressure (either refrigerant line)
  • Monitor pressures as the system operates.
  • Do Not Attempt to add freon while the coil is frozen!
Normal Pressure Range
Refrigerant 0-30 Deg O/D 30-50 Deg O/D
R410A
  • 75-100 Suction
  • 250-320 Discharge
  • 100-150 Suction
  • 250-375 Discharge
  • Allow the system to operate for at least 5-10 minutes.
  • Low Pressure Issues
    • Low Suction + Low Discharge + Expansion Valve Frosting = Low Refrigerant Charge or Bad Expansion Valve
      • Try adding refrigerant through the Low Pressure gauge.
        • Suction and Discharge Pressures should gradually increase as refrigerant is added.
        • If the Discharge Pressure increases but the Suction stays low or drops = Bad O/D Expansion Valve

6. Check Defrost Timer

  • Unlike most "Demand-Defrost" controls, the M4HP4 Defrost Board has and adjustable timer.
  • Check SW3-3 on the Defrost Board.
    • If everything else checks-out normal ⇒ Change the Defrost Timer to 30 Min by setting SW3-3 to ON.
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Article ID: 664
Last updated: 22 Dec, 2020
Revision: 10
Access: Public
Views: 744
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