Ameristar Heat Pump: M4HP4
Re: Defrosting Problem / Outdoor Coil Frozen
The M4HP4 uses a "Hybrid" Demand Defrost control board with a timer.
The board uses an Ambient (outdoor) Sensor, a Liquid Line Sensor and an adjustable 30 or 60 min. timer to determine when defrost should occur.
Qty |
Possible Causes: |
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Bad Liquid Line Sensor |
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Bad Defrost Board |
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Bad Condenser Fan Motor |
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Mis-Placed Coil Sensor |
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Bad Fan Capacitor |
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Low Refrigerant Charge |
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Bad Expansion Valve |
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Stuck Contactor |
CHECKOUT:
1. Check Contactor
- If the outdoor unit is not operating → Step 2. Check Outdoor Fan
- If the outdoor unit is running, check for 24VAC across the contactor coil.
- No Power + Unit Running = Stuck Contactor
2. Check Outdoor Fan
- If the outdoor unit is not operating, set the thermostat to call for heat.
- Inspect the outdoor unit and make sure the outdoor fan is operating.
- Fan Operating → Step 3. Test Defrost Cycle
- No Fan ⇒ Check for 230VAC to the fan motor on the Black wire (at the contactor) and the Black wire on [FAN] at the Defrost Board.
- No Power = Bad Defrost Board or Unit in Defrost
- Power Present + No Fan = Bad Condenser Fan Motor or Bad Capacitor ⇒ Test Capacitor
3. Test Defrost Cycle
- Force the unit into defrost by setting SW3-1 to ON.
- The unit should enter a Defrost Mode and terminate when the T3 sensor reaches 77 deg or after 10 min.
- Set SW3-1 back to OFF after a manual defrost.
4. Check Liquid Line Sensor
- Disconnect high voltage power from the unit by pulling the service disconnect or turning the breaker off.
- Disconnect low voltage terminal plug from the Defrost Board.
- Disconnect the Black [T3] connector from the Defrost Board .
- Set the multi-meter on 200K (not 200) Ohms.
- Test resistance of the sensor.
- Use Resistance Chart to determine sensed temperature.
- Compare sensed temperature to actual temperature.
- If sensed temperature is more than 5 deg. higher or lower than actual temperature = Bad Liquid Line Sensor
- If sensor reads correct but terminates defrost too soon ⇒ Look for Mis-Placed Coil Sensor
- Sensor should be between the O/D Expansion Valve and the Condenser Coil on one of the feeder lines (typically a short stub of 3/8" pipe at the coil).
5. Check Refrigerant Pressures
- Hook-up refrigerant gauges to the pressure ports on the unit.
- Blue --> "True Suction" Port (Not the Suction Line)
- Red --> High Pressure (either refrigerant line)
- Monitor pressures as the system operates.
- Do Not Attempt to add freon while the coil is frozen!
Normal Pressure Range |
Refrigerant |
0-30 Deg O/D |
30-50 Deg O/D |
R410A |
- 75-100 Suction
- 250-320 Discharge
|
- 100-150 Suction
- 250-375 Discharge
|
- Allow the system to operate for at least 5-10 minutes.
- Low Pressure Issues
- Low Suction + Low Discharge + Expansion Valve Frosting = Low Refrigerant Charge or Bad Expansion Valve
- Try adding refrigerant through the Low Pressure gauge.
- Suction and Discharge Pressures should gradually increase as refrigerant is added.
- If the Discharge Pressure increases but the Suction stays low or drops = Bad O/D Expansion Valve
6. Check Defrost Timer
- Unlike most "Demand-Defrost" controls, the M4HP4 Defrost Board has and adjustable timer.
- Check SW3-3 on the Defrost Board.
- If everything else checks-out normal ⇒ Change the Defrost Timer to 30 Min by setting SW3-3 to ON.