Knowledgebase

GSZ14 - Defrost Problem, Outdoor Coil Frozen

Article ID: 622
Last updated: 25 Feb, 2022

Goodman Heat Pump: GSZ14

Re: Defrost Problem, Outdoor Coil Frozen

The Goodman GSZ14 Heat Pump uses a Time & Temperature Defrost Board.

► There are two different defrost boards used on these models. 

  • PCBDM101 = Simple Time & Temperature Defrost Board
  • PCBDM133S = Advanced Time & Temperature Defrost Board with Extra terminals: "Cont" = Output to Contactor, "PS1" & PS2" = Pressure Switch Inputs.
Qty Possible Causes:
2 Bad or Disconnected Defrost Stat
Bad Defrost Board
Low Refrigerant Charge
Bad Cond Fan Motor / Capacitor
Mis-Located Defrost Stat
Stuck Reversing Valve
Defrost Timer Set Too Long

CHECKOUT:

1. Check Operating Status


2. Check Fan Motor

  • With the compressor operating, use a multi-meter to check for 230VAC power between the motor's Purple and Black wires.
    • No Power = Bad Defrost Board or In Defrost Mode
    • Power + No Operation = Bad Fan Motor or Capacitor

3. Check Refrigerant Charge

Hook-up refrigerant gauges to the pressure ports on the unit.

  • Blue ⇒ True Suction Pressure Port
  • Red ⇒ High Pressure Port (Either refrigerant line)
  • Monitor pressures as the system operates.
Normal Pressure Range
Refrigerant 0-30 Deg O/D 30-50 Deg O/D
R410A
  • 70-100 Suction
  • 250-320 Discharge
  • 100-135 Suction
  • 250-375 Discharge
  • Low Pressure Issues
    • Low Suction + Low Discharge + Expansion Valve Frosting = Low Refrigerant Charge 
      • Try adding refrigerant through the Low Pressure gauge.
        • Suction and Discharge Pressures should gradually increase as refrigerant is added.
        • If the Discharge Pressure increases but the Suction stays low or drops = Bad Expansion Valve
    • Low Suction + High Discharge + Expansion Valve Frosting = Bad Expansion Valve

4. Check Defrost Board

  • Check for 24VAC between "C" and "R" on the defrost board.
    • No Power = Mis-wired Low Voltage
  • Check for 24VAC between "C" and "Y" on the defrost board.
  • Check for 24VAC between "C" and "DFT" on the defrost board.
    • Power = Defrost Stat Closed, Ready for Defrost
    • No Power = Defrost Stat Open, Not Ready for Defrost
      • Cold Coil + Open Defrost Stat = Bad or Disconnected Defrost Stat
      • Warm Coil + Open Defrost Stat ⇒ It may be necessary to temporarily bypass the stat by placing a jumper across "R" and "DFT".
  • Speed-up the timer by jumping the Test pins on the defrost board.
    • A defrost cycle should initiate within 5 seconds.
      • No Defrost Cycle = Bad Defrost Board
      • Initiates Defrost + Terminates Quickly = Wrong Stat Location (Must be a coil feeder line between the metering device and coil)
      • Normal Defrost Cycle ⇒ Check refrigerant pressures in defrost mode: Should come-up to approx. 300-350psi (Head) and at least 100psi (Suction) to terminate.
This article was:   Helpful | Not helpful
Report an issue
Article ID: 622
Last updated: 25 Feb, 2022
Revision: 10
Access: Public
Views: 1830
Comments: 0