Goodman Heat Pump: ASZ / SSZ14
Re: High Electric Bill - Heating
- The customers reports that the unit is heating but their electric bill is higher than normal.
- May also report that the unit runs too much or blows cool air.
Qty |
Possible Causes: |
|
Bad Dual Capacitor |
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Tripped Breaker |
|
Low Pressure Switch |
|
Hi Pressure Switch |
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Low Refrigerant Charge |
|
Bad O/D Expansion Valve |
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Bad Contactor |
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No Low Voltage Signal |
CHECKOUT
1. Check Outdoor Unit
- Unit Status
- Inspect the outdoor unit and make the outdoor coil is not frozen-over.
- Power
- Open the outdoor unit control cabinet.
- Check for 200 - 240VAC on the inlet side of the compressor contactor.
- No or Low Voltage ⇒ Check Power at Disconnect & Breaker Panel
- Check to see if the compressor contactor is pulled-in.
- Check for 200 - 240VAC on the leaving side of the compressor contactor.
2. Check Capacitor
- Break power to the outdoor unit by pulling the service disconnect or turning off the breaker.
- Remove wires from "C" and "HERM" of the capacitor.
- Move Meter leads to COM and MFD.
- Set Meter to 200 MFD.
- Place one lead on capacitor "C" and the other on capacitor terminal "HERM"
- Confirm MFD reading with capacitor rating.
- Less than 80% of rating = Bad Capacitor
- SWITCH METER LEADS BACK TO COM AND V BEFORE PROCEEDING!
3. Check Low Voltage
- At the outdoor unit low voltage connections, check for 24VAC between "Red" and "Blue".
- Check for 24VAC between "BL/PK" and "Blue".
- No Power = No call from the thermostat ⇒ Recheck thermostat and look for a condensate overflow switch at the air handler.
- Check for 24VAC at the compressor contactor coil "YL/PK" and "Blue".
- No Power at Contactor + Power on "Y" (BL/PK) = Open Safety → Step 4. Check Safeties
- Power at Contactor + Contactor Not Pulled-In = Bad Contactor
4. Check Safeties
- At the wire-nut splice, check for 24VAC between "BL/PK ⇔ YL/PK" and "Blue".
- No Power = Open Hi Pressure Switch
- Power Present ⇒ Continue
- At the compressor contactor, check for 24VAC between "YL/PK" and "Blue".
- No Power = Open Low Pressure Switch
- Power Present + Contactor Not Pulled-In = Bad Contactor
5. Check Refrigerant Pressures
- Hook-up refrigerant gauges to the pressure ports on the unit.
- Blue --> "True Suction" Low Pressure
- Red --> High Pressure (either refrigerant line)
- Monitor pressures as the system operates.
Normal Pressure Range |
Refrigerant |
0-30 Deg O/D |
30-50 Deg O/D |
R410A |
- 75-100 Suction
- 250-320 Discharge
|
- 100-150 Suction
- 250-375 Discharge
|
- If a Liquid-Line Sight Glass is installed, observe for bubbles in the sight glass (after the system has been operating for at least 5 min.)
- Suction Pressure Issues
- Low Suction + Low Discharge + Clear Sight Glass + Expansion Valve Frosting = Bad O/D Expansion Valve
- Low Suction + Low Discharge + Bubbles in Sight Glass + Expansion Valve Frosting = Low Refrigerant Charge
- Try adding refrigerant through the Low Pressure gauge.
- Suction and Discharge Pressures should gradually increase as refrigerant is added.
- If the Discharge Pressure increases but the Suction stays low or drops = Bad O/D Expansion Valve
- High Pressure Issues
- Monitor pressures and temperature as the system operates.
- If the discharge pressure exceeds Normal Range or kicks-off on Hi Pressure safety in the first 5 minutes = Refrigerant Overcharge or No Indoor Blower
- Clear Sight Glass + High Discharge + High Suction = Overcharged
- Clear Sight Glass + High Discharge + Low Suction = Bad Expansion Valve
- Bubbles in Sight Glass + High Discharge = Low Indoor Heat Transfer → Step 6. Check Air Temperature Rise
6. Check Air Temperature Rise
- Remove "W1" and "W2" form the air handler terminal block.
- Check the Return Air Temperature near the unit or in the filter compartment.
- Check the Supply Air Temperature.
- Normal Temperature Rise = 15-20 deg.
- Abnormally Low Return Air Temperature ⇒ Check Return Ductwork for Cold Air Infiltration
- Low Temperature Rise = Inefficient Operation
- High Temperature Rise = Low Airflow
- RE-HOOK "W1" AND "W2" WIRES ON THE AIR HANDLER!