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FRHS - Outdoor Unit Won't Come On

Article ID: 512
Last updated: 13 Feb, 2018

Coleman Heat Pump: FRHS

Re: Outdoor Unit Not Running

The indoor blower is operating, but the outdoor unit fan and compressor are not running.

► This unit has a Current-Sensing Lockout Relay. If the CSR receives a call for "Y" and sees no compressor amperage, it enters lockout mode and powers the "L" terminal on the LTB. 


Qty Possible Causes:
No Line Voltage Power
No Call on "Y"
Bad Capacitor
Locked-Up Compressor
Bad Contactor
Bad Lockout Relay
High Pressure Lockout
High Temperature Lockout


CHECKOUT:

1. Check High Voltage Power & Contactor

  • Check for 230VAC inlet power across L1 and L2 of the compressor contactor.
    • No Power ⇒ Check Disconnect and Breakers
      • Check for a "Short-to-Ground" before checking/resetting the breaker!
  • Check to see if the compressor contactor is pulled-in.
    • Not Pulled-In → Step 2. Check Low Voltage
    • Pulled-In + Inlet Power + Not Running = Bad Contactor or Bad Capacitor ⇒ Check for 230VAC on the leaving side of the contactor.
      • Power In + No Power Out = Bad Contactor
      • Power Out + Not Running ⇒ Check for a Bad Capacitor, Locked-Up Compressor or Burnt Wires to Compressor
        • Motor and Compressor could both be off on over-temperature

2. Check Low Voltage Power

  • Ensure the thermostat is calling for either heating or cooling.
  • At the outdoor LTB, check for 24VAC between "B" and "X".
    • No Power = Bad Transformer or Incorrect Wiring
  • Check for 24VAC between "Y" and "X" at the LTB.
    • No Power = No Call from the Thermostat ⇒ Recheck Stat
      • Look for a Condensate Overflow Switch at the air handler.
  • Check for 24VAC at the compressor contactor coil.
    • 24V Power+ Not Pulled-In = Bad Contactor
    • Power on "Y" + No Power at Contactor = Current Sensor Lockout or Bad Safety ⇒ Check Safety Circuit

3. Check Safety Circuit

  • Time Delay Relay
  • Check for 24VAC Inlet Power between E3 & E4.
    • No Power = No call for "Y" or Broken Common Wire (X).
  • Check for 24VAC Outlet Power between E1 & E2
    • Inlet Power + No Outlet Power = Bad Time Delay or Waiting
  • Current Sensor
  • Check for 24VAC Inlet Power between Terminal 1 & 2.
    • No Power = Bad Defrost Relay #1
  • Check for 24VAC Outlet Power between Terminal 1 & 3.
    • Inlet Power + No Outlet Power = Tripped Current Sensor ⇒ Confirm by checking for 24VAC between Terminal 1 & X on the Current Sensor or "L" to "X" on the LTB.
      • Power Present = Locked-Out ⇒ Check High Pressure & High Temp Switch
  • High Pressure/Temperature
  • Check continuity across each safety

4. Check Refrigerant Charge

  • Hook-up refrigerant gauges to the unit.
  • Reset the control by cycling power to "Y".
  • Observe the pressures as the system operates.
    • High Pressure Switch should open above 450 psig.

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Article ID: 512
Last updated: 13 Feb, 2018
Revision: 8
Access: Public
Views: 35
Comments: 0