Coleman Heat Pump: FRHS
Re: Outdoor Unit Not Running
The indoor blower is operating, but the outdoor unit fan and compressor are not running.
► This unit has a Current-Sensing Lockout Relay. If the CSR receives a call for "Y" and sees no compressor amperage, it enters lockout mode and powers the "L" terminal on the LTB.
Qty |
Possible Causes: |
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No Line Voltage Power |
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No Call on "Y" |
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Bad Capacitor |
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Locked-Up Compressor |
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Bad Contactor |
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Bad Lockout Relay |
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High Pressure Lockout |
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High Temperature Lockout |
CHECKOUT:
1. Check High Voltage Power & Contactor
- Check for 230VAC inlet power across L1 and L2 of the compressor contactor.
- No Power ⇒ Check Disconnect and Breakers
- Check for a "Short-to-Ground" before checking/resetting the breaker!
- Check to see if the compressor contactor is pulled-in.
- Not Pulled-In → Step 2. Check Low Voltage
- Pulled-In + Inlet Power + Not Running = Bad Contactor or Bad Capacitor ⇒ Check for 230VAC on the leaving side of the contactor.
- Power In + No Power Out = Bad Contactor
- Power Out + Not Running ⇒ Check for a Bad Capacitor, Locked-Up Compressor or Burnt Wires to Compressor
- Motor and Compressor could both be off on over-temperature
2. Check Low Voltage Power
- Ensure the thermostat is calling for either heating or cooling.
- At the outdoor LTB, check for 24VAC between "B" and "X".
- No Power = Bad Transformer or Incorrect Wiring
- Check for 24VAC between "Y" and "X" at the LTB.
- No Power = No Call from the Thermostat ⇒ Recheck Stat
- Look for a Condensate Overflow Switch at the air handler.
- Check for 24VAC at the compressor contactor coil.
- 24V Power+ Not Pulled-In = Bad Contactor
- Power on "Y" + No Power at Contactor = Current Sensor Lockout or Bad Safety ⇒ Check Safety Circuit
3. Check Safety Circuit
- Time Delay Relay
- Check for 24VAC Inlet Power between E3 & E4.
- No Power = No call for "Y" or Broken Common Wire (X).
- Check for 24VAC Outlet Power between E1 & E2
- Inlet Power + No Outlet Power = Bad Time Delay or Waiting
- Current Sensor
- Check for 24VAC Inlet Power between Terminal 1 & 2.
- No Power = Bad Defrost Relay #1
- Check for 24VAC Outlet Power between Terminal 1 & 3.
- Inlet Power + No Outlet Power = Tripped Current Sensor ⇒ Confirm by checking for 24VAC between Terminal 1 & X on the Current Sensor or "L" to "X" on the LTB.
- Power Present = Locked-Out ⇒ Check High Pressure & High Temp Switch
- High Pressure/Temperature
- Check continuity across each safety
4. Check Refrigerant Charge
- Hook-up refrigerant gauges to the unit.
- Reset the control by cycling power to "Y".
- Observe the pressures as the system operates.
- High Pressure Switch should open above 450 psig.