Knowledgebase

Heat Pump Locked-Out - Heating

Article ID: 224
Last updated: 30 Jan, 2023

York Package Heat Pumps: BHZ

Re: Compressor not Running / Unit Locked-Out

  • There are two control boards in this unit, a fan timer board and a defrost board.
  • On the BHZ package units the defrost board controls the compressor contactor and condenser fan.

Safeties:

There is a high pressure switch and a low pressure switch wired in series to the "Pressure Switch" terminals on the defrost board.

  • Hi Pressure Switch = 625 psig Cutout
  • Lo Pressure Switch = 7 psig Cutout

Either switch opening with a call for "Y" will cause the heat pump to enter a "lockout".

► There is no LED on the board to indicate a lockout status.


Qty Possible Causes (From Most to Least Likely):
Loss of Refrigerant Charge
Refrigerant Over-Charge
Bad Indoor Blower
Clogged Air Filter
Clogged Indoor Coil
Bad Expansion Valve

CHECKOUT:

1. Check Power

  • Disconnect power to O/D unit by pulling disconnect or turning off breaker.
    • Open the blower door and lower the electrical compartment cover. 
    • Use a multi-meter to check resistance across each fuse.
    • Inspect for burnt wiring or burnt contactor contacts.
  • Re-apply power to the unit and set the thermostat to call for heat.
  • Check for 24VAC between "R" and "C" on the Fan Timer control board.
    • No Power = No High Voltage Power, Blown Low Voltage Fuse or Bad Transformer
  • Check for 24VAC between "Y" and "C" on the Fan Timer control board.
    • No Power = No Call from Thermostat ⇒ Check Thermostat
    • Power --> Compressor and Condenser Fan should start with 5 minutes.

2. Check Operation

  • Ensure that the indoor blower is operating.
    • Power on "Y", "G" or "W" + No Blower = Bad Blower Motor
  • Ensure that the compressor and outdoor fan motor start properly.
    • Compressor Running + No Outdoor Fan = Defrost Mode, Bad Fan Motor or Bad Defrost Control Board
      • Ensure unit is not in defrost mode.
      • Check for 230VAC between the condenser motor "Common" wire (Black) at the defrost board and "Run" (Purple) wire at the capacitor.
        • Power + No Fan = Bad Cond Motor
        • No Power = Defrost Mode or Bad Defrost Control Board

3. Check Safety Circuit

  • With wires plugged-in, check for 24VAC between "C" and both "Pressure Switch" terminals of the defrost control board.
    • Power on both terminals = Control likely in Lockout ⇒ Reset power and retry
    • Power on one terminal but not the other = Open Hi or Lo Pressure Switch Step 4. Check Refrigerant Pressures

4. Check Refrigerant Pressures

  • Hook-up refrigerant gauges to the pressure ports on the unit.
    • Very Low Pressures = Loss of Charge  Check for a leak
  • Allow the system to run for at least 10 minutes.
  • Monitor pressures as the system operates.
Normal Pressure Range
Refrigerant 0-30 Deg O/D 30-50 Deg O/D
R410A
  • 75-100 Suction
  • 250-320 Discharge
  • 100-150 Suction
  • 250-375 Discharge
  • Low Pressure Issues
    • Low Suction + Low Discharge + Expansion Valve Frosting = Low Refrigerant Charge
      • Try adding refrigerant through the Low Pressure gauge.
        • Suction and Discharge Pressures should gradually increase as refrigerant is added.
        • If the Discharge Pressure increases but the Suction stays low or drops = Bad Expansion Valve (See "Expansion Valve Issues" in Related Articles)
  • High Pressure Issues
    • Place an insulated temperature probe on the liquid line between the evaporator coil & O/D expansion valve.
    • Allow the unit to run for at least 10 minutes.
    • Monitor pressures and temperature as the system operates.
      • If pressure exceeds Normal Range or kicks-off on Hi Pressure safety in the first 5 minutes = Refrigerant Overcharge or No Indoor Blower
    • Check Sub-Cooling
      • Record "Saturation Temperature" from the discharge pressure gauge.
      • Subtract the Actual liquid line temperature reading.
        • Saturation Temp - Liquid Line Temp = Sub-Cooling
          • Sub-Cooling > 13 deg. + High Discharge + High Suction = Overcharged
          • Sub-Cooling > 13 deg. + High Discharge + Low Suction = Bad Expansion Valve
          • Sub-Cooling < 2 deg. + High Discharge = Low Indoor Heat Transfer

5. Check Defrost

  • Cycle the heat pump through a defrost by shorting the TEST pins on the defrost board.
  • Observe refrigerant pressures.
  • Unit should terminate defrost somewhere around the following pressures:
    • 125 - 140 Suction 
    • 300 to 400 Discharge.

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Article ID: 224
Last updated: 30 Jan, 2023
Revision: 17
Access: Public
Views: 268
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