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Package Heat Pump - No Heat

Article ID: 202
Last updated: 30 Jan, 2023

Package Heat Pump

Re: No Heat

When a customer reports "No Heat' with a heat pump, that generally indicates a problem with the indoor blower or electric heaters.

► There may be a problem with the heat pump itself, but the auxiliary heaters should cycle on to keep the temperature within 1 degree of the Heat Setpoint.


Qty Possible Causes (From Most to Least Likely):
2 Bad Blower Motor
Bad Capacitor
Heater Limit Trip
1 Bad Breaker
Blown Low Voltage Fuse
Bad Heater Sequencer(s)
Bad Control Board
Bad Limit Switch
Bad Heaters

CHECKOUT:

1. Check Operation


2. Check Line Voltage Power

  • Turn off power to the unit.
    • If present, use the service disconnect (s).
    • Be aware that most package heat pumps have up to 3 power supplies!
  • Remove access panel.
  • Look for any signs of burnt wires or controls.
  • Check resistance across each fuse.
    • No Resistance = Blown Fuse
  • Turn power back on to the unit.
  • Check for 230V power across each power supply.
    • No Power = Check Breaker Panel, Bad Breaker

3. Check Low Voltage Power

  • Check for 24VAC between "R" and "C" on the low voltage wiring.
    • No Power = Blown Low Voltage Fuse or Bad Transformer
  • Check for 24VAC between "G" and "C" on the low voltage wiring.
  • Check for 24VAC between "W" and "C" on the low voltage wiring.
    • No Power = No call for Aux Heat from the thermostat or Mis-Wiring
    • Power Present + Blower Running → Step 5. Check Heaters

4. Check Blower Motor & Capacitor

  • Check Capacitor
    • Turn off all power to the unit.
    • Remove capacitor wires (short before touching)
    • Move Multi-Meter leads to COM and MFD.
    • Set Meter to 200 MFD.
    • Place one lead on each side of the capacitor. 
    • Confirm MFD reading with capacitor rating.
      • Less than 80% of rating = Bad Capacitor
    • SWITCH METER LEADS BACK TO COM AND V BEFORE PROCEEDING!
  • Check Blower Motor
    • Check for 230V across blower motor "COM" and the Speed wire.
      • Power but No Motor Operation = Bad Blower Motor
      • No Power = Bad Fan Control

5. Check Heaters

  • Amperage
    • With a call for "W" (or W1 and W2) use an Amp Probe to check amperage of each heater.
      • No amperage = Bad Heater Controller, Bad Limit, Bad Heaters or 3-Limit Trip Lockout ⇒ Reset power to unit and re-check heaters.
  • Voltage
    • If accessible, check for 230V across each heater.
      • No Voltage = Bad Heater Controller(s) or Bad Limit(s)
      • Voltage + No Amperage = Bad Heater

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Article ID: 202
Last updated: 30 Jan, 2023
Revision: 5
Access: Public
Views: 60
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