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Package Heat Pump - High Electric Bills

Article ID: 164
Last updated: 30 Jan, 2023

York Package Heat Pump: Heating

Re: High Electric Bill

When the customers reports an electric bill that is much higher than normally, that typically means that the auxiliary heaters are operating more than normal.

► The blower and auxiliary heaters are typically working normally or the customer would also be experiencing no heat.


Qty Possible Causes:
Bad Capacitor
1 Control Lockout (High or Low Pressure)
Bad Compressor
Defrost Problem
Bad Control Board
Unit Mis-Wired
Low Refrigerant Charge
Bad Expansion Valve
Thermostat Issue
Ductwork Problem


CHECKOUT:

1. Check Power

  • Disconnect power to O/D unit by pulling disconnect or turning off breaker.
    • Open the blower door and lower the electrical compartment cover. 
    • Use a multi-meter to check resistance across each fuse.
    • Inspect for burnt wiring or burnt contactor contacts.
  • Re-apply power to the unit and set the thermostat to call for heat.
  • Check for 24VAC between "R" and "C" on the ECM control board.
    • No Power = No High Voltage Power, Blown Low Voltage Fuse or Bad Transformer
  • Check for 24VAC between "Y1" and "C" on the ECM control board.
    • No Power = No Call from Thermostat ⇒ Check Thermostat
    • Power ⇒ Compressor and Condenser Fan should start with 5 minutes.

2. Check Compressor Operation

  • Compressor and Condenser Fan start and run normally → Step 3. Check Refrigerant Pressures
  • Compressor Does Not Try to Start = Control in Lockout or Bad Control Board
    • Check for 24VAC between "LP" and "C", then "HP" and "C" on the ECM board.
      • Power on one but not the other = Open Hi or Lo Pressure Switch
      • Power on both = Possible Lockout. Cycle power to the unit to reset any lockouts and then Re-check.
        • Check for 24VAC power across both sides of the compressor contactor coil (allow time for "Wait" timer to expire).
          • Power but contactor doesn't pull-in = Bad contactor
          • No Power ⇒ Suspect Bad ECM Control Board
  • Compressor Hums but Doesn't Run = Bad Capacitor, Locked-up Compressor, or Burnt Wiring
  • Condenser Fan Starts but No Compressor ⇒ Check Compressor Contactor

3. Check Refrigerant Pressures

  • Hook-up refrigerant gauges to the pressure ports sticking through the cabinet.
    • Red --> High Pressure
    • Blue --> Low Pressure
  • Monitor pressure as the system operates.
Normal Pressure Range
Refrigerant 0-30 Deg O/D 30-50 Deg O/D
R22
  • 20-40 Suction
  • 150-225 Discharge
  • 40-75 Suction
  • 170-260 Discharge
R410A
  • 75-100 Suction
  • 250-320 Discharge
  • 100-150 Suction
  • 250-375 Discharge
  • Low Pressure Issues
    • Low Suction + Low Discharge + Expansion Valve Frosting = Low Refrigerant Charge or Bad Expansion Valve
      • Try adding refrigerant through the Low Pressure gauge.
        • Suction and Discharge Pressures should gradually increase as refrigerant is added.
        • If the Discharge Pressure increases but the Suction stays low or drops = Bad Expansion Valve
  • High Pressure Issues
    • Place an insulated temperature probe on the liquid line between the evaporator coil & O/D expansion valve.
    • Allow the unit to run for at least 10 minutes.
    • Monitor pressures and temperature as the system operates.
      • If pressure exceeds Normal Range or kicks-off on Hi Pressure safety in the first 5 minutes = Refrigerant Overcharge or No Indoor Blower
    • Check Sub-Cooling
      • Record "Saturation Temperature" from the discharge pressure gauge.
      • Subtract the Actual liquid line temperature reading.
        • Saturation Temp - Liquid Line Temp = Sub-Cooling
          • Sub-Cooling > 13 deg. + High Discharge + High Suction = Overcharged
          • Sub-Cooling > 13 deg. + High Discharge + Low Suction = Bad Expansion Valve
          • Sub-Cooling < 2 deg. + High Discharge = Low Indoor Heat Transfer Step 5. Check Air Temperature Rise

4. Check Compressor Discharge Temperature

  • Use a multi-meter to check the temperature of the compressor discharge line.
  • Normal Temperature = 120 - 150 deg.
    • Low Discharge Temp = Inefficient Operation

5. Check Air Temperature Rise

  • With the auxiliary heaters disconnected (remove "W1" and "W2" form the ECM terminal block):
    • Check the Return Air Temperature near the unit or in the filter compartment.
    • Check the Supply Air Temperature.
    • Normal Temperature Rise = 15-20 deg.
      • Abnormally Low Return Air Temperature ⇒ Check Return Ductwork for Cold Air Infiltration
      • Low Temperature Rise = Inefficient Operation
      • High Temperature Rise = Low Airflow
    • RE-HOOK "W1" AND "W2" WIRES ON ECM BOARD!

6. Check Thermostat Aux Ht Settings (New VisionPro 8000)

  • Check the Aux Heat Control Setting
    • Under Installer Setup, go to Setup #309
      • Change from "comfort" to "2.0" or "3.0"
    • Press Done to save changes.
      • This change doesn't allow Aux Ht operation unless the indoor temperature drops [#309] degrees below setpoint.

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Article ID: 164
Last updated: 30 Jan, 2023
Revision: 25
Access: Public
Views: 67
Comments: 0
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