York Package Heat Pump: Heating
Re: High Electric Bill
When the customers reports an electric bill that is much higher than normally, that typically means that the auxiliary heaters are operating more than normal.
► The blower and auxiliary heaters are typically working normally or the customer would also be experiencing no heat.
Qty |
Possible Causes: |
|
Bad Capacitor |
1 |
Control Lockout (High or Low Pressure) |
|
Bad Compressor |
|
Defrost Problem |
|
Bad Control Board |
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Unit Mis-Wired |
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Low Refrigerant Charge |
|
Bad Expansion Valve |
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Thermostat Issue |
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Ductwork Problem |
CHECKOUT:
1. Check Power
- Disconnect power to O/D unit by pulling disconnect or turning off breaker.
- Open the blower door and lower the electrical compartment cover.
- Use a multi-meter to check resistance across each fuse.
- Inspect for burnt wiring or burnt contactor contacts.
- Re-apply power to the unit and set the thermostat to call for heat.
- Check for 24VAC between "R" and "C" on the ECM control board.
- No Power = No High Voltage Power, Blown Low Voltage Fuse or Bad Transformer
- Check for 24VAC between "Y1" and "C" on the ECM control board.
- No Power = No Call from Thermostat ⇒ Check Thermostat
- Power ⇒ Compressor and Condenser Fan should start with 5 minutes.
2. Check Compressor Operation
- Compressor and Condenser Fan start and run normally → Step 3. Check Refrigerant Pressures
- Compressor Does Not Try to Start = Control in Lockout or Bad Control Board
- Check for 24VAC between "LP" and "C", then "HP" and "C" on the ECM board.
- Power on one but not the other = Open Hi or Lo Pressure Switch
- Power on both = Possible Lockout. Cycle power to the unit to reset any lockouts and then Re-check.
- Check for 24VAC power across both sides of the compressor contactor coil (allow time for "Wait" timer to expire).
- Power but contactor doesn't pull-in = Bad contactor
- No Power ⇒ Suspect Bad ECM Control Board
- Compressor Hums but Doesn't Run = Bad Capacitor, Locked-up Compressor, or Burnt Wiring
- Condenser Fan Starts but No Compressor ⇒ Check Compressor Contactor
3. Check Refrigerant Pressures
- Hook-up refrigerant gauges to the pressure ports sticking through the cabinet.
- Red --> High Pressure
- Blue --> Low Pressure
- Monitor pressure as the system operates.
Normal Pressure Range |
Refrigerant |
0-30 Deg O/D |
30-50 Deg O/D |
R22 |
- 20-40 Suction
- 150-225 Discharge
|
- 40-75 Suction
- 170-260 Discharge
|
R410A |
- 75-100 Suction
- 250-320 Discharge
|
- 100-150 Suction
- 250-375 Discharge
|
- Low Pressure Issues
- Low Suction + Low Discharge + Expansion Valve Frosting = Low Refrigerant Charge or Bad Expansion Valve
- Try adding refrigerant through the Low Pressure gauge.
- Suction and Discharge Pressures should gradually increase as refrigerant is added.
- If the Discharge Pressure increases but the Suction stays low or drops = Bad Expansion Valve
- High Pressure Issues
- Place an insulated temperature probe on the liquid line between the evaporator coil & O/D expansion valve.
- Allow the unit to run for at least 10 minutes.
- Monitor pressures and temperature as the system operates.
- If pressure exceeds Normal Range or kicks-off on Hi Pressure safety in the first 5 minutes = Refrigerant Overcharge or No Indoor Blower
- Check Sub-Cooling
- Record "Saturation Temperature" from the discharge pressure gauge.
- Subtract the Actual liquid line temperature reading.
- Saturation Temp - Liquid Line Temp = Sub-Cooling
- Sub-Cooling > 13 deg. + High Discharge + High Suction = Overcharged
- Sub-Cooling > 13 deg. + High Discharge + Low Suction = Bad Expansion Valve
- Sub-Cooling < 2 deg. + High Discharge = Low Indoor Heat Transfer → Step 5. Check Air Temperature Rise
4. Check Compressor Discharge Temperature
- Use a multi-meter to check the temperature of the compressor discharge line.
- Normal Temperature = 120 - 150 deg.
- Low Discharge Temp = Inefficient Operation
5. Check Air Temperature Rise
- With the auxiliary heaters disconnected (remove "W1" and "W2" form the ECM terminal block):
- Check the Return Air Temperature near the unit or in the filter compartment.
- Check the Supply Air Temperature.
- Normal Temperature Rise = 15-20 deg.
- Abnormally Low Return Air Temperature ⇒ Check Return Ductwork for Cold Air Infiltration
- Low Temperature Rise = Inefficient Operation
- High Temperature Rise = Low Airflow
- RE-HOOK "W1" AND "W2" WIRES ON ECM BOARD!
6. Check Thermostat Aux Ht Settings (New VisionPro 8000)
- Check the Aux Heat Control Setting
- Under Installer Setup, go to Setup #309
- Change from "comfort" to "2.0" or "3.0"
- Press Done to save changes.
- This change doesn't allow Aux Ht operation unless the indoor temperature drops [#309] degrees below setpoint.