Knowledgebase

4TWB3 - Outdoor Unit Not Running

Article ID: 518
Last updated: 16 Feb, 2018

Trane Heat Pump: 4TWB3

Re: Outdoor Unit Not Running

  • The thermostat is calling for either HEATING or COOLING.
  • The Indoor fan is operating.
  • Neither the Outdoor Fan or Compressor are operating.

Qty Possible Causes:
Bad Dual Capacitor
Tripped Breaker
1 Low Pressure Switch
Hi Pressure Switch
Bad Contactor
Bad Disconnect
No Low Voltage Signal

CHECKOUT

1. Check High Voltage

  • Open the outdoor unit control cabinet.
  • Check for 200 - 240VAC on the inlet side of the compressor contactor.
    • No or Low Voltage ⇒ Check Power at Disconnect & Breaker Panel
  • Check to see if the compressor contactor is pulled-in.
  • Check for 200 - 240VAC on the leaving side of the compressor contactor.
    • Contactor Pulled-In + No or Low Voltage = Bad Contactor
    • Power Present + No Operation → Step 2. Check Capacitor

2. Check Capacitor

  • Break power to the outdoor unit by pulling the service disconnect or turning off the breaker.
  • Remove wires from "C" and "HERM" of the capacitor.
  • Move Meter leads to COM and MFD.
  • Set Meter to 200 MFD.
  • Place one lead on capacitor "C" and the other on capacitor terminal "HERM" 
  • Confirm MFD reading with capacitor rating.
    • Less than 80% of rating = Bad Capacitor
  • SWITCH METER LEADS BACK TO COM AND V BEFORE PROCEEDING!

3. Check Low Voltage

  • At the outdoor unit low voltage connections, check for 24VAC between "Red" and "Blue".
    • No Power = Blown Low Voltage Fuse or No Air Handler Power
  • Check for 24VAC between "Yellow" and "Blue".
    • No Power = No call from the thermostat ⇒ Recheck thermostat and look for a condensate overflow switch at the air handler.
  • Check for 24VAC at the compressor contactor coil "YL/RD" and "Blue".
    • No Power at Contactor + Power on "Y" = Open Safety → Step 4. Check Safeties
    • Power at Contactor + Contactor Not Pulled-In = Bad Contactor

4. Check Safeties

  • At the defrost board plug, check for inlet power between "Yellow" and "Blue".
    • No Power = No call on "Y" or Broken Wire
  • At the defrost board, check for 24VAC between "YL/BK" and "Blue".
    • No Power = Anti-Short-Cycle Delay or Bad Defrost Board
    • Power Present ⇒ Continue
  • At the wire-nut splice, check for 24VAC between "YL/RD ⇔ RD" and "Blue".
    • No Power = Open Low Pressure Switch
    • Power Present ⇒ Continue
  • At the compressor contactor, check for 24VAC between "YL/RD" and "Blue".
    • ​​​​​​​No Power = Open Hi Pressure Switch
    • Power Present + Contactor Not Pulled-In = Bad Contactor

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Article ID: 518
Last updated: 16 Feb, 2018
Revision: 5
Access: Public
Views: 113
Comments: 0