York Heat Pump: ERC
Re: Outdoor Unit Not Running
The indoor blower is operating, but the outdoor unit fan and compressor are not running.
Qty |
Possible Causes: |
|
No Line Voltage Power |
|
Bad Capacitor |
|
Control Board Lockout |
|
No Call on "Y" |
|
Bad Contactor |
1 |
Bad Control Board |
|
Bad Pressure Switch |
CHECKOUT:
1. Check High Voltage Power & Contactor
- Check for 230VAC inlet power across L1 and L2 of the compressor contactor.
- No Power ⇒ Check Disconnect and Breakers
- Check for a "Short-to-Ground" before checking breaker!
- Check to see if the compressor contactor is pulled-in.
- Not Pulled-In → Step 2. Check Low Voltage
- Pulled-In + Inlet Power + Not Running = Bad Contactor or Bad Capacitor
- Check for 230VAC on the leaving side of the contactor.
- Power In + No Power Out = Bad Contactor
- Power Out + Not Running ⇒ Check for a Bad Capacitor
- Motor and Compressor may both be off on over-temperature
2. Check Low Voltage Power
- Ensure the thermostat is calling for either heating or cooling.
- At the defrost control board, check for 24VAC between "R" and "C".
- No Power = Bad Transformer or Loose Wiring
- Check for 24VAC between "Y" and "C" on the defrost board.
- No Power = No Call from the Thermostat ⇒ Recheck Stat
- Look for a Condensate Overflow Switch at the air handler.
- Check for 24VAC at the compressor contactor coil.
- 24V Power Present but not Engaged = Bad Contactor
- No Power at Contactor + Power on "Y" = Control Board Lockout or Bad Defrost Control
- Attempt to reset the control by jumping the "Test" pins.
3. Check Refrigerant Charge
- Hook-up refrigerant gauges to the unit and observe pressure readings.
- High Pressure Switch should open above 450 psig.
4. Test Safety Circuit
- Disconnect the two wires from the defrost board "Switch" terminals.
- Check resistance through the safeties.
- Pressures Normal + Open Safety = Bad Pressure Switch