York Heat Pump: Heating
Re: High Pressure Fault - Last Mode Heat Pump
The heat pump was running in normal heat mode (not in defrost) and the high pressure switch tripped.
A High Pressure Lockout is indicated by the following LED pattern on the outdoor unit control board:
	- Green = Off
 
	- Red = 2 Flashes
 
X/L Output
	- 2 Flashes at Thermostat = Soft Lockout
	
		- Switch opened two times in 6 hours.
 
		- Reset by cycling thermostat or jumping Test pins.
 
	
	 
	- 3 Flashes at Thermostat = Hard Lockout
	
		- Four Soft Lockouts in 12 hours.
 
		- Reset by cycling 24VAC power to the board.
 
	
	 
	
		
			| Qty | 
			Possible Causes: | 
		
		
			| 1 | 
			Refrigerant OverCharge | 
		
		
			| 1 | 
			Bad Expansion Valve | 
		
		
			| 1 | 
			Bad Blower Motor / Capacitor | 
		
		
			 | 
			Bad CFM Board | 
		
		
			 | 
			Low Indoor Airflow | 
		
		
			 | 
			Refrigerant Restriction | 
		
		
			 | 
			Bad Pressure Switch | 
		
		
			 | 
			Sticking Contactor | 
		
	
CHECKOUT:
1. Check Indoor Airflow
	- Set the thermostat to call for heat.
 
	- Confirm that the indoor fan is operating and air is blowing out of the supply registers
	
	
 
2. Check Blower Motor
	- The YZE & YZH heat pumps should be matched with a Variable Speed Indoor Blower.
 
	- At the air handler, confirm that 240VAC is being supplied to the motor.
 
	- Confirm that 24VAC is present between "C" and "G", "Y1" or "Y2".
	
		- No 24VAC Power = No signal from thermostat
 
		- 240V Power Present + 24V Power Present + No Blower Operation = Bad Blower Motor or Bad CFM Board
 
	
	 
3. Check Refrigerant Pressures
	- Hook-up refrigerant gauges to the pressure ports on the unit.
	
		- Blue ⇒ "True Suction" Low Pressure
 
		- Red ⇒ High Pressure (either refrigerant line)
 
	
	 
	- Place an insulated temperature probe on the liquid line near the outdoor unit.
 
	- If the heat pump is in lockout (still flashing a code), reset by removing 24VAC power to the outdoor control board (remove "R" or cycle power to the air handler).
 
	- Initiate a call for heat from the thermostat.
 
	- Allow the unit to run for at least 10 minutes.
 
	- Monitor pressures and temperature as the system operates.
	
		- If pressure exceeds Normal Range or kicks-off on Hi Pressure safety in the first 5 minutes = Bad Overcharge or No Indoor Blower → Step 6. Check Air Filter & Indoor Coil
 
		- If the compressor never kicks on & the control locks-out on Hi Pressure ⇒ Suspect a Bad Pressure Switch
 
	
	 
4. Check Sub-Cooling
	- Record "Saturation Temperature" from the discharge pressure gauge.
 
	- Subtract the Actual liquid line temperature reading.
	
		- Saturation (Gauge) Temp - Liquid Line Temp = Sub-Cooling
		
			- Sub-Cooling > 13 deg. + High Discharge Pressure + Normal Suction Pressure = Overcharged 
 
			- Sub-Cooling > 13 deg. + High Discharge Pressure + Low Suction Pressure = Bad Expansion Valve
 
			- Sub-Cooling < 2 deg. + High Discharge Pressure + Hot Liquid Line = Low Indoor Heat Transfer → Step 5. Check Heat Pump Temperature Rise
 
			- Sub-Cooling < 13 deg. + Normal Discharge Pressure + Normal Suction Pressure ⇒ Suspect a Failing Blower Motor, a Bad High Pressure Switch or a Sticking Contactor
 
		
		 
	
	 
5. Check Heat Pump Temperature Rise
	- Check to make sure the indoor fan is operating.
 
	- Disconnect auxiliary heat (remove "W" at the air handler or thermostat).
 
	- Check the Return Air Temperature at the air handler (at the filter if possible).
	
		- High Return Air Temperature (more than 85 deg.) = Heat Recycling
 
	
	 
	- Check the Supply Air Temperature near the air handler (in a straight duct run if possible).
 
	- Calculate the Temperature Rise = Supply Air Temperature - Return Air Temperature
	
		- Normal Heat Pump Temperature Rise = 15 - 20 deg.
		
		
 
	
	 
6. Check Air Filter & Indoor Coil
	- Remove Air Filter and Check for a Dirty Indoor Coil
	
		- If Indoor Coil is OK ⇒ Re-Check Temperature Rise with the filter removed.
		
			- No Change = Restricted Ductwork or Low Blower Speed → Step 7. Check Duct Static Pressure
 
			- Temperature Rise Becomes Normal = Clogged Air Filter ⇒ Replace Filter & Re-check Pressures
 
		
		 
	
	 
7. Check Duct Static Pressure
	- Check the return static pressure (between the air handler and filter if possible).
 
	- Check the supply static pressure.
	
		- High Static = Above 0.5" w.c.
		
			- High Return Static + Low Supply Static = Restricted Return Ductwork
 
			- Low Return Static + High Supply Static = Restricted Supply Ductwork
 
		
		 
		- Static Pressure Normal ⇒ Increase Blower Speed or Clean Blower Wheel